| 摘要: |
| 目的 分析畲族服饰图案的题材类别和艺术特征，从艺术人类学角度进行解读，挖掘民族民间传统图案的文化基因，为其在当代的传承与创新设计服务。方法 以艺术人类学惯用的田野调查法和访谈法为基础，收集畲族传统服饰图案的样式及民间艺人对图案背后审美文化的民族记忆，从艺术设计的审美和服饰工艺出发，对畲族服饰图案的材质、工艺、构图等艺术特征进行分析。结论 畲族服饰图案种类多样，其题材主要有山野生活、宗教神灵、祖灵形象、人物故事和吉祥愿景五大类，应从文化认同、生活习俗、情感认知等方面解读其独特的艺术特征。畲族服饰图案是文化交融、共生、演绎的结果，图案表象展现了丰厚的民族文化和情感表达的符号，对当代民族传统文化传承与设计创新有重要的理论价值和指导意义。 |
| 关键词: 艺术人类学 畲族服饰 图案 解读 |
| DOI：10.19554/j.cnki.1001-3563.2019.02.019 |
| 分类号:J523.5；TS941.12 |
| 基金项目:国家社科基金艺术学项目“艺术人类学视野下的畲族服饰传承脉络与发展保护研究”（16BG117） |
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| Interpretation of She Nationality's Costume Pattern Based the Perspective of Artistic Anthropology |
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LI Fang-yuan1, CHEN Jing-yu1,2
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1.Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou 310018, China;2.Silk and Fashion Culture Center of Zhejiang Province, Hangzhou 310018, China
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| Abstract: |
| The work aims to analyze the theme category and artistic characteristics of She nationality's clothing pattern, interpret it from the perspective of artistic anthropology, and dig the cultural gene of national folk traditional pattern, so as to serve its inheritance and innovative design in contemporary times. Based on the field investigation and interview commonly used in artistic anthropology, the patterns of She nationality's traditional dress and folk artists' national memories of the aesthetic culture be-hind the patterns were collected, and the artistic features of She nationality's dress patterns such as material, craft and composition from the aesthetic and dress techniques of artistic design were analyzed. She nationality's dress patterns are diverse, and their themes mainly include the life in the wild mountains, religious gods, ancestral images, character stories and auspicious visions. Their unique artistic features should be interpreted from the aspects of cultural identity, life customs and emotional cognition, etc. The dress pattern of She nationality is the result of cultural blending, symbiosis and deduction, the pattern representation shows rich symbols of national culture and emotional expression, which has important theoretical value and guiding significance for the inheritance and design innovation of contemporary national traditional culture. |
| Key words: artistic anthropology costumes of She nationality pattern interpret |
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